Tokyo’s hanamachi, its geisha districts, keep a refined culture of hospitality alive. In a long-established ryotei, kaiseki is served while geisha dance and play shamisen within arm’s reach, and the evening ends in the games of the ozashiki.
Choose the district. In Mukojima, where some eighty geisha still work, one leads you through the lanes at dusk. In Asakusa, a storied ryotei, with a guide to the district’s history.
